FASHIONALLY - #FAfeature | The Playful Vision of Masayuki Ino: Doublet’s Creative Genius

#FAfeature | The Playful Vision of Masayuki Ino: Doublet’s Creative Genius

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2025.02.04

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The Playful Vision of Masayuki Ino: A Conversation with the Creative Mind Behind Doublet
From manga artist aspirations to winning the prestigious LVMH Prize and being the first Asian designer to do so, Japanese designer Masayuki Ino's journey in fashion has been anything but conventional. You’d recognise his whimsically adventurous designs a mile away, whether it’s the intarsia knit sweaters and balaclavas meant to be pulled over, or “The Bear Carrying On You” faux-fur trousers. As the creative force behind one of the buzziest menswear labels, Doublet, Ino has carved out a unique space in the fashion landscape where creativity, sustainability, and wearability converge.

Ino didn’t always imagine working in fashion. “I didn't initially set out to be a designer,” he admits. His early love for drawing, combined with a love for clothing, naturally evolved into fashion design. This unconventional background perhaps explains Doublet’s distinctive approach to fashion – one that breaks boundaries and lets its wearers have fun.

The Balance of Playfulness and Wearability
One of the hallmarks of Ino’s work is the playful nature of his designs. How does he balance this with practicality and wearability? “My standard is simple: it depends on whether I’d want to wear it out,” he explains. If a design resonates with him and feels suitable for everyday wear, it strikes the right balance.

Humour also plays a crucial role in the brand’s DNA, reflecting Ino’s belief that fashion should be a vehicle for joy. “I believe it’s very important to achieve a sense of happiness through fashion,” he says.

The designer’s creative prowess is perhaps best exemplified in his recent Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which features a groundbreaking garment made from Brewed Protein™ fibers, a material manufactured through the fermentation of plant-based ingredients. This piece can be compressed to resemble a steak and expands back into wearable clothing when immersed in water. The inspiration? Something as mundane as disposable travel towels. “It's just that no one had thought to apply it to fashion,” Ino explains, demonstrating his knack for finding extraordinary possibilities in ordinary objects. “To be imaginative, my advice is to think about everyday objects and try to relate them to fashion,” he adds.

Building a Global Brand
Doublet’s journey to international recognition wasn’t without its challenges. In the early days, the brand faced the common struggle of generating buyer interest. “When others showed little interest in Doublet, I reviewed the brand's positioning, what originality meant, and what our direction was,” Ino shares. This period of reflection proved crucial, leading to a renewed approach that eventually garnered wider appreciation.

The brand’s success extends beyond clothing to the creation of immersive retail experiences. Doublet is renowned for its creative store installations that translate design concepts and pop culture into physical spaces. “We’ve always placed significant emphasis on how to utilise the entire space to express ourselves,” Ino says, highlighting the importance of maintaining a consistent visual language from design to customer experience. Most store designs are conceived by his team, but Ino is heavily involved in the creative direction. “I hope that when people visit the store, they can feel the overall concept of the season,” he says.

Embracing Sustainability
Sometimes, Doublet’s designs may come across as frivolous. However, the designer is serious about making fashion more planet-conscious. Ino’s vision for Doublet is deeply intertwined with sustainability. He’s particularly passionate about accelerating the adoption of innovative, sustainable materials in the fashion industry. “I hope that these materials can be promoted more quickly, perhaps within 10 to 20 years, rather than waiting 50 years for widespread use. I want to use my design abilities to help achieve this,” he says.

The designer is already putting this vision into practice, experimenting with protein-based materials and other sustainable alternatives. He stresses that accessing sustainable materials isn’t as challenging as many might think, and cites an example of designers using leather made from tea leaf waste.

Advice for Emerging Designers
As the VIP judge for YDC 2024 and 2018 LVMH Prize winner, Ino can offer valuable insights for emerging designers. Ino’s own experiences as a competitor, including winning the prestigious LVMH Prize early in his career, shaped his views on the importance of design competitions for emerging talent. “These competitions provide invaluable experience,” he asserts, adding that events like the YDC offer young designers a platform to showcase their work and build connections with industry professionals, which can be transformative for their careers.

His advice for sustaining a business in today’s economy is simple. “You need to take this seriously... focus on being able to work independently and put in the effort.” Cultivating independence and a strong work ethic is essential in an industry that requires constant creativity and innovation, he adds.

In the age of social media, the designer also maintains a balanced perspective. While acknowledging the benefits of increased visibility and reduced marketing costs, he cautions against over-reliance on digital platforms. “Many creative ideas can’t be fully expressed through photos or videos online," he notes, advocating for a more holistic approach to brand building.

Masayuki Ino’s journey with Doublet represents a masterclass in building a fashion brand that balances creativity with commercial viability, and innovation with sustainability.

So, lastly, we asked what he would be if he weren’t a fashion designer. “A movie director!” he says. Ino’s approach demonstrates that success in fashion doesn’t mean choosing between artistic expression and practicality — it's about finding the sweet spot where both can coexist.

Text: Cherry Mui

Video: Ken Lam